The two-day May, 2017 Pre-Regionals Speed Training Camp with the legend of modern speed climbing, Ukrainian Danyil Boldyrev (official IFSC speed route record holder for three years), was a success! Despite Danyil’s tight, full competition schedule, he found time to come to Atlanta for two days of speed training.
    Eleven climbers from Atlanta and from Texas took part in the camp. In the course of two days, they learned a lot of useful information and positive energy for moving forward on the way to their fastest times. Throughout the weekend, they learned a lot of subtleties and nuances as they trained for speed.
    Emphasis was made throughout camp that to be fast is not just trying to climb fast and getting a good speed time here and there. A very big part of the training was focused on the fact that to achieve their best times ON the wall, they need to continue training OFF the wall.  Making sure to train on "behind the wall" workouts include doing tremendous amounts of work aimed toward developing explosive power of the lower/upper body and core strength. 
    The first part of the camp was spent paying attention to the analysis of speed climbing technique and the basics of body position and foot placement. Throughout the rest of the weekend, the athletes played interesting games, were given bouldering challenges for strength building and also had the opportunity to compete against each other on the speed wall. Some of the climbers even achieved their own personal speed times despite the accumulated fatigue with all of the intense training.
    Danyil shared his ideas for speed training based on his vast international  competitive experience. He reminded the climbers that it is very important to have a strict and professional attitude about yourself and your training: "If you want to be an Olympic Champion, you must first think like an Olympic champion. "
    Danyil and I were very impressed with the hard effort put forth by all of the camp climbers and how hard everyone worked. Although the camp was only two days and all of the the progress anticipated could not be achieved for each individual climber in such a short time, in general the camp was very productive and effective for all of the climbers.  They will be able to take what they learned during the two days and apply it to their speed training going forward.  
Keep training everyone!

Report by Coach Olexiy Shul’ga